Lawn · Garden beds · Driveways · Gravel

How to get rid of weeds — for good

Here’s how to get rid of weeds: first name the weed, then match it to the method that works on it: pull it, spray it, smother it or stop its seeds — and time it to the season. Step-by-step fixes below.

Identify my weed →See this month’s to-do

Where are the weeds?

In my lawnKill weeds, not grass Flower bedsAround plants & mulch Driveway cracksPavers, patios, sidewalks Gravel & rockPaths and landscaping Vegetable gardenFood-safe methods Clear everythingKill weeds and grass

Most common weeds

Identify a weed →

CrabgrassThin, sunny lawns · summerGrassy annual

DandelionLawns everywhere · springBroadleaf perennial

CloverLow-nitrogen lawnsBroadleaf perennial

Creeping CharlieShady lawns and bedsBroadleaf perennial

NutsedgeWet spots · fast-growingSedge

Poison ivyEdges, fences, woodsWoody vine

Japanese knotweedEdges, streams, yardsInvasive perennial

MossShady, compacted spotsNon-vascular plant

Pick your method

1Pull itBest for a few weeds in moist soil. Get the whole root, especially on taprooted weeds like dandelion.How to pull weeds →

2Homemade sprayVinegar-based sprays burn leaves on contact. Good on young weeds in cracks; roots can survive.Recipes and limits →

3Pre-emergentStops seeds from sprouting. It does nothing to weeds already growing, so timing is everything.When to apply →

4Lawn-safe killerSelective herbicides hit weeds, not turf — if you match the product to the weed and your grass.Choose the right one →

5SmotherMulch, cardboard or fabric starves weeds of light and keeps seeds from germinating.Mulch vs fabric →

Free tool

Weed identifier

Answer four questions — leaves, flowers, where it grows, how it spreads — and get the likely matches with the fix for each.

Start identifying

Already know the culprit?

Crabgrass Clover Dandelions Creeping Charlie Nutsedge Wild violets Poison ivy Bindweed Thistle Japanese knotweed

Weed control calendar

What to do this month

Full calendar and timing tips →

Step 1: know what kind of weed you have

Every weed falls into one of three groups, and the group decides the method. Annual weeds such as crabgrass, foxtail and chickweed live one season and come back from seed, so the fix is to stop the seeds: pull them before they flower, mulch bare soil, or use a pre-emergent at the right time. Perennial weeds such as dandelion, creeping Charlie, bindweed and Japanese knotweed come back every year from roots, runners or rhizomes, so cutting the tops is never enough: you have to remove or kill the root system.

The third distinction matters most in lawns: broadleaf weeds (dandelion, clover, violets), grassy weeds (crabgrass, foxtail) and sedges (nutsedge) each need a different product. A broadleaf killer will not touch crabgrass, and a crabgrass product will not stop nutsedge. If you are not sure what you are looking at, use the weed identification guide before you buy anything.

Step 2: match the method to the place

Where the weeds are	Best first move	Keep them away
Lawn	Hand-pull or spot-treat with a selective product	Mow high, feed and overseed thin spots
Flower beds	Pull or hoe on a dry day	2–3 inches of mulch
Vegetable garden	Pull, hoe, or smother between rows	Mulch paths and keep beds planted
Driveway and patio cracks	Scrape, boiling water or a contact spray	Refill joints so seeds can’t lodge
Gravel	Rake, pull or spray young weeds	Fabric under the stone, top up the gravel

Step 3: remove what’s growing

Pull or dig while the soil is moistGrip the weed at its base and pull slowly so the root comes with it. A long, narrow weeding tool helps with taproots like dandelion.
Spray only what you needContact sprays such as vinegar weed killer kill the leaves they touch; systemic herbicides travel to the roots. Read and follow the label — on any herbicide, the label is the law.
Treat at the right seasonPerennial broadleaf weeds are easiest to kill in fall, when they move food down to their roots. Annual grassy weeds are easiest to stop in spring, before they sprout.
Dispose of seed headsBag weeds that are flowering or have seeds instead of composting them, unless your compost pile gets hot enough to kill seeds.

Step 4: stop them from coming back

Weeds move into bare soil and thin turf. In beds, cover the soil with mulch or plants; in lawns, a dense, well-fed lawn mowed on the high side for its grass type shades the soil so weed seeds struggle to sprout. Water deeply and less often, which favors grass roots over shallow weed seedlings. And keep after the weeds that do appear before they set seed: one plant left to flower can reseed a whole bed.

Pets and kids: keep them off treated areas for as long as the product label says, and store products out of reach. For lower-risk options, see our pet-safe weed killer guide.

Homemade, natural or store-bought?

Homemade sprays are cheap and work on young weeds in cracks and gravel, but they kill top growth only and damage anything they touch. Natural methods — pulling, mulching, boiling water, smothering — are safe around food and pets but take repeat work. Store-bought products are the most effective on established perennials and lawn weeds, but they must be matched to the weed and used exactly as labeled. Our homemade weed killer, natural weed killer and weed killer guides compare them side by side.

Common mistakes

Mowing or pulling the tops only on perennials: the roots push up new shoots within weeks.
Using a pre-emergent on existing weeds: it only stops seeds from sprouting.
Spraying on a windy or hot day: drift damages nearby plants, and many products don’t work well in high heat.
Putting salt near plants you want to keep: it stays in the soil.
Seeding and using a pre-emergent at the same time: most pre-emergents also stop grass seed.

FAQ

What is the fastest way to get rid of weeds?

For a few weeds, pulling them by hand in moist soil is the fastest permanent fix. For a large area, a contact spray (vinegar-based or a commercial product) browns the leaves within hours to a day, but deep-rooted perennials usually regrow and need a systemic product or repeat treatments.

How do I get rid of weeds permanently?

Combine three things: remove the roots of perennial weeds, stop new seeds from sprouting (mulch in beds, a pre-emergent or a thick lawn), and never let the weeds you have go to seed. Weed seeds can stay alive in the soil for years, so prevention matters as much as removal.

What kills weeds but not grass?

A selective herbicide labeled for your grass type. Broadleaf products target weeds like dandelion and clover without killing turf; grassy weeds like crabgrass and sedges need products made for them. See our guide to weed killer for lawns.

Does vinegar kill weeds?

Household vinegar (5% acetic acid) burns the leaves of young weeds on contact, usually within a day in sunny weather. It does not reach the roots, so perennials often grow back, and it damages any plant it touches. Details and recipe in our vinegar weed killer guide.

When is the best time to pull weeds?

A day or two after rain or a deep watering, when the soil is moist and roots slide out whole. Pull young weeds early in the season, and always before they flower and set seed.

Updated October 3, 2026