Creeping Charlie: how to get rid of ground ivy
Creeping Charlie is one of the toughest weeds a lawn can get, but it can be beaten: spray a triclopyr or fluroxypyr product in mid to late fall after the first frost, follow up the next spring, pull runners by hand where it is small, and fix the shade and wet soil that let it win.
Contents
- What is creeping Charlie?
- Why is creeping Charlie in your lawn?
- How to remove creeping Charlie by hand
- Is there a natural creeping Charlie killer?
- Borax for creeping Charlie: why extension services advise against it
- What kills creeping Charlie but not grass?
- When to spray creeping Charlie
- Common mistakes
- FAQ
What is creeping Charlie?
Creeping Charlie, also called ground ivy or gill-over-the-ground (Glechoma hederacea), is a perennial in the mint family that settlers brought from Europe. You can recognize it by:
- Leaves: round to kidney-shaped, with scalloped (rounded-tooth) edges, in pairs opposite each other.
- Stems: square, creeping along the ground and rooting at every node where a pair of leaves grows.
- Flowers: small, funnel-shaped, bluish-purple, roughly April to June.
- Smell: a strong minty odor when you crush a leaf or mow it.
Leaves and stems die back after hard frosts, but the crowns survive the winter and regrow in spring. Searching for “creepy Charlie”? It is the same plant.
Look-alikes
- Henbit also has square stems and purple flowers, but it is a winter annual that dies out by early summer, and its upper leaves wrap around the stem with no leaf stalk. It does not spread as a long, rooting runner. See how to identify henbit.
- Common mallow has round, scalloped leaves too, but they sit on long stalks alternating along a round stem, with no mint smell.
Both need a different plan, so check before treating. Creeping Charlie is one of the broadleaf weeds covered in the lawn weeds guide.
Why is creeping Charlie in your lawn?
Creeping Charlie prefers moist, fertile soil in shade — under trees, along the north side of the house, in low wet spots — and from there it creeps into the sunny lawn. Where you find it, you usually find:
- Grass thinned by shade or poor drainage.
- Overwatering or soil that stays wet.
- Turf mowed too short for the site.
Treat the weed and these conditions together, or it returns. Patches of moss in the lawn often point to the same shade and moisture problems.
How to remove creeping Charlie by hand
Hand removal works on patches of a few square feet if you are thorough. Every piece of stem with a node left in the soil can root again.
- Water firstMoist soil lets the roots slide out instead of breaking.
- Lift a runner and follow itPull slowly back toward the parent plant, then loosen the crown with a hand fork. A stiff rake also pulls up loose runners in a lawn.
- Bag everythingDon’t leave stems on the lawn or toss them in a cool compost pile, where they can root.
- Repeat every couple of weeksYou will miss pieces. Pulling regrowth before it spreads exhausts what is left.
- Reseed the gapsUse a shade-tolerant grass such as fine fescue where light is limited.
For larger patches you plan to replant, smothering with cardboard or black plastic for several weeks during the growing season kills creeping Charlie along with the grass beneath. In beds, a thick layer of mulch after hand weeding helps; see our guide to weeds in flower beds.
Is there a natural creeping Charlie killer?
Not one that works on its own. Vinegar and other natural weed killers burn the leaves they touch but leave the rooted stems alive, and they kill the surrounding grass. The lasting natural fixes are cultural:
- More light: prune lower tree limbs to let more sun reach the turf.
- Drier soil: water less often and improve drainage in low spots.
- Taller, thicker grass: mow at about 3 inches, feed at the right time for your grass, and overseed with shade-tolerant varieties.
- Give up on grass in deep shade: replace it with a shade ground cover adapted to your area.
Borax for creeping Charlie: why extension services advise against it
Borax (sodium tetraborate) is a popular home remedy because creeping Charlie is sensitive to boron. University extension services, including Wisconsin and Illinois, do not recommend it, for several reasons:
- It is not labeled as a herbicide. It was never registered or tested for this use.
- Results are inconsistent. Research has found it often does a poor job on creeping Charlie.
- Boron is toxic to plants above tiny amounts. Plants need only trace levels; the dose that harms creeping Charlie can also injure grass, shrubs and garden plants.
- It does not go away. Boron does not break down in the soil. Repeated or heavy applications build up and can leave bare areas where little will grow — a lasting problem in your lawn soil.
Bottom line: skip the borax. A labeled triclopyr product applied once or twice in fall is more effective and does not poison the soil.
What kills creeping Charlie but not grass?
| Active ingredient | On creeping Charlie | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Triclopyr | Best | Alone or with fluroxypyr; also the top choice for violets |
| Fluroxypyr | Best | Often combined with triclopyr |
| Sulfentrazone | Good | Found in some lawn weed mixes |
| 2,4-D + MCPP + dicamba | Fair | Several applications usually needed |
| Glyphosate | Not for lawns | Kills the grass too; only for renovation |
| Borax | Not recommended | Not a labeled herbicide; boron builds up in soil |
Our guide to broadleaf weed killers explains how these products differ, and the lawn weed killer guide covers safety by grass type. Some triclopyr products are not labeled for southern grasses such as St. Augustine or centipede, so check the list of grasses on the label before you buy.
When to spray creeping Charlie
- Fall, after the first frost (best)The plant is sending food to its crowns for winter and carries the herbicide down with it. Research has found the best long-term control from applications made between early October and early November; triclopyr kept working when applied as late as early to mid-November. Results may not show until spring.
- Spring, at bloom (second best)Spray while it flowers, roughly April to June, then again three to four weeks later.
- Pick the dayApply when temperatures are in the mid-60s to low 80s°F, with no rain expected for 24 hours, and avoid mowing for a few days before and after.
- Plan on repeatsOne application rarely finishes it. Expect treatments over more than one season, combined with the cultural fixes above.
As with any herbicide, read the label and follow it: it sets the rate, the number of applications per year and how long to keep people and pets off the lawn. Check the weed control calendar for the timing in your region.
Common mistakes
- Spraying once in spring and assuming the regrowth means the product failed.
- Pulling only the leaves and leaving rooted stems in the soil.
- Using borax, which can damage the lawn for years.
- Ignoring shade and wet soil, so the weed always has the advantage.
- Composting the runners in a pile that doesn’t heat up.
Creeping Charlie often shares shady lawns with wild violets, which respond to the same triclopyr timing, and with chickweed.
FAQ
What kills creeping Charlie but not grass?
Selective broadleaf herbicides containing triclopyr, fluroxypyr or a mix of the two give the best control in cool-season lawns. Three-way mixes of 2,4-D, MCPP and dicamba help but usually need more applications. Sulfentrazone is another option. Use a product whose label lists your grass, and follow it exactly.
Does borax kill creeping Charlie?
It can damage it, but extension services do not recommend it. Borax is not labeled as a herbicide, results are inconsistent, and the boron it adds does not break down in the soil. Too much, or repeat treatments, can injure grass and other plants and leave bare spots that last.
What kills creeping Charlie naturally?
No natural spray kills it reliably. The natural approach is physical: pull or rake out the runners from moist soil, repeat as it regrows, smother large patches with cardboard or black plastic, and make the spot less welcoming with more light, better drainage and thicker grass or a shade ground cover.
When is the best time to kill creeping Charlie?
Mid to late fall, after the first frost, when the plant moves food reserves down to its crowns and carries the herbicide with them. Research has found the best long-term control from applications made between early October and early November. Spring, while it is in bloom, is the second-best time; a follow-up spray three to four weeks later helps.
Why is creeping Charlie so hard to get rid of?
It spreads by creeping stems that root at every node, so each fragment left behind can start a new plant. It also tolerates shade and moist soil where grass struggles, which gives it a constant advantage.
Related
- Lawn weedsCommon lawn weeds by type (grassy, broadleaf, sedge), what each one says about your lawn, and the right control and timing to get rid of weeds in grass.
- Wild violetsHow to get rid of wild violets in a lawn: dig out the rhizomes, spot-spray triclopyr in spring and fall, repeat for more than one season and thicken the grass.
- Broadleaf weed killerBroadleaf weed killer explained: how 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba and triclopyr kill weeds but not grass, the best fall timing, and how to avoid drift and tree damage.
- Moss in lawnHow to get rid of moss in your lawn: kill it with iron or a fatty-acid moss killer, rake it out, then fix the shade, compaction, pH or drainage behind it.
Updated October 3, 2026